Meet the Nobu of Surrey

Beaverbrook in Leatherhead, Surrey recently underwent a £90m refurbishment. The former home of media magnate and politician, Lord Beaverbrook, this luxury, Grade II-listed countryside hotel is now home to an incredible Japanese-focused Dining Room.

Step forward Taiji Maruyama and take a bow. The Head Chef has created a phenomenal menu that is not just triumphant in flavour, but absolutely stunning in presentation. He’s previously worked at Nobu as sushi chef as well as executive sous chef in their Monaco restaurant, before going onto launch Kiru in Mayfair.

Considering Maruyama’s past ventures as sushi chef at Nobu, I was excited to sample those on the menu. The Japanese Tacos are dainty, delicate and light. The tuna is amazing, presented in a small canoe of crispy seaweed and a blanket of caviar. The Dragon Sushi Roll is a must. Tempura crispy prawn and avocado, underneath crispy leek is just a joy in every mouthful.

I’d recommend ordering the Beaverbrook Omakase Nigiri, which is the chef’s selection of eight pieces. The highlights included the Wagyu beef, the Suzuki (seabass) with crispy ants, and the blue prawn, which comes with it’s edible crispy head on the side. I’d also highly recommend the ceviche – it is, undoubtedly, the best I have ever tried. Beautifully presented and bursting with so much fresh, zesty flavour.

The service at Beaverbrook is exceptional. The staff are knowledgeable without being pretentious. Hospitable without being overly attentive. And all of their recommendations to us were spot on. Which is why I feel the need to dedicate the mains to them. The recommendations of the black cod and the grilled half lobster were incredible. Both stunning in presentation, the former was wonderfully tender and exquisite in taste. The latter, too, was simply incredible – both on the eye and on the palette.

It was a pleasure to lunch here and I will certainly be going back again, such has been the praise I’ve given it to anyone who’ll listen.

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