Located inside a tile warehouse in East London, The Waterhouse Project has become one of London’s most talked about supperclubs. This is Gabriel Waterhouse’s first solo residency. He’s gone solo after working in the Michelin Starred kitchen at Galvin La Chapelle, and with three-time Michelin Star winner, Herbert Berger at Innholders Hall. The move has so far paid off, with outstanding reviews from both critics and guests alike. This has naturally resulted in the supperclub becoming very popular, seeing it almost permanently booked out. Fortunately I was able to visit recently and learn firsthand just what the fuss is all about.
Upon arrival at the warehouse you’ll firstly note the quirkiness of your home for the evening, as you take in the eclectic mix of dozens of tile patterns lining the walls. Before you know it you’ll have a welcome cocktail in your hand – white port with fresh mint and tonic – as you take in your surroundings and meet fellow diners. The half an hour window gives people enough time to arrive and have a drink, before everyone’s seated and Gabriel introduces the first of the eight courses, with a pairing of five glasses of fine wines by the team from WineDog.
- Chestnut and balsamic veloute – Stout sourdough and marmite butter
- Brassicas, pickled walnut puree, mustard and nigella vinaigrette – Paired with Chapel Down, Bacchus, 2017, Kent, UK
- Lime cured sea trout, avocado and lime puree, gin tonic and lime granita – Paired withJosef Ehmose, Grumer Veltimer, 2017, Wagram, Austria
- Pheasant pastilla, parsley root puree, pickled cranberries (Sweet potato pastilla – V) – Paired with Rioja Crianza 2015, Rioja, Spain
- Sutton Hoo chicken, mushroom and sherry puree, giroles and tarragon (Parmesan gnocchi, pickled girolles and chanterelles – V) – Paired with Rioja Crianza 2015, Rioja, Spain
- Pear sorbet, Per Las, rye and nigella seed cracker – Paired with Grahams fine white port, Douro, Portugal
- Barkham blue cheese with Golden cross, fig sorbet and rye cracker
Paired with Churchill’s white port, Douro
- Pine needle ice cream
- Apple and thyme, caramalised puff pastry, Normandy crème fraiche and calvados – Paired with Domaine de Durban, Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise 2015, Vin Doux Naturel, France
- Chocolate and thyme truffles, Talisker whiskey wine gums
- Fresh mint tea and coffee
It was interesting at the end to hear everyone around the table’s different opinions, which their favourite dishes were, which flavour combinations worked, which wine pairings enhanced the tastes. The standout dishes for all was the Nordic-style salad at the beginning, along with the chicken and the pheasant – both wonderfully cooked, the pheasant in particular, unique in its presentation (like a savoury baklava). The pine needle ice cream, too, is subtle and wintery, and served on large stones collected by Gabriel himself in Devon.
For more information, visit www.thewaterhouseproject.com