London Fashion Week: Roberta Einer California Dreaming

Central Saint Martins´ old headquarters building got revamped for Roberta Einer´s newest collection showcase. For her SS18 preview, it was completely Californiacated with the help of palm trees, cushions, warm lighting and some thematic music in the background.

Just as you would expect, the inspiration for this collection derives from California – its surf and skate culture in the 1970-80s, the era of punchy slogans and colourful graphic design.

Roberta´s bright and shimmering work is in tune with her signature style, loved by many. The maximalist luxury ready-to-wear designer finds her influence in the works of Joseph Szabo, Hugh Holland and Jay Adams – it is the never-ending summer and the pools are drained for showing off the skating skills. When the youth rule and the only thing that matters is to be cool.

Raymond Pettibon´s posters speak the same language as the slogans on the oversized jackets, slip dresses and accessories. Childlike illustrations are mixed with a punk rock aesthetic.

As ever, there are the oversized, richly embellished bomber jackets, little sassy skirts draped to glamorous effect, baggy T-shirts accentuating the crop tops crocheted with bugle beads, contrasted with wide-leg palazzo trousers and embroidered slip dresses. Asymmetry as the trend of the season can be noted. Motif-wise it is all about the waves and the palm trees.

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The texture is always the key in Roberta´s work, ranging from the well-known bead embroidery to the layers of chiffon, Swarovski crystal embellishments and leather applique.

The designer once again teams up with Swarovski to show off her textile ingenuity. The new collaboration with Vans showcased trainers embroidered in bead patterns and slogans.

The models look relaxed and at ease in these clothes. The laid-back atmosphere oozes girl-power and team spirit.

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Luxury Womenswear designer Roberta Einer moved from her hometown of Tallinn, Estonia to London to study on the prestigious fashion courses at Central Saint Martins and the University of Westminster. During her studies, she completed internships with Mary Katrantzou and Alexander McQueen, before moving to Paris upon graduation to assist at Balmain for a year where she continued to develop her craft.

Establishing her label upon her return to London, the Roberta Einer brand is now in its fifth season creating experimental, luxury womenswear focusing on textiles and working with traditional couture techniques. Playful embellishments and hand-embroidery decorate specially sourced fabrics to create her daring more-is-more, feminine aesthetic.

For me, this is the epitome of sartorial chic.