Restaurant review: Angel above Portobello

I don’t often get seriously impressed by restaurants anymore. There. I said it. Whilst I enjoy the culinary offerings of various eateries around London Town and beyond, and feel blessed for all my foodie experiences, it is truly rare that I find a place that actually surpasses my expectations and blows me away with its fabulousness. This actually happened one drizzly July evening at Angel Above Portobello – the newly launched restaurant nestled on the first floor of The Distillery on London’s iconic Portobello Road. Under the commanding guidance of talented Executive Chef Peter Breckon, Angel Above Portobello is already making a name for itself as a haven for high quality, modern British cuisine.

Occupying a cozy space with a 34-seat capacity, Angel Above Portobello channels an intimate, yet communal dining experience with an emphasis on an à la carte format and innovative small plates. The restaurant’s ethos is underpinned by a mission to bring an extraordinary dining experience to the inhabitants of Notting Hill and beyond, without asking them to break the bank.

What distinguishes this restaurant is its steadfast commitment to sourcing prime local produce, underscoring its dedication to sustainability and reducing its ecological footprint. At the heart of this enterprise is Breckon – a culinary artist whose career has seen him working alongside world-renowned gastronomes such as Heston Blumenthal and Mark Hix.

The offering here is an assortment of meticulously crafted small plates and sharing dishes. We adored the fish tacos – served with coley, chipotle and tangly coleslaw, and the creamy burrata – gloriously surrounded by wild garlic, sunflower seeds and nasturtium. The mutton kofta kebab was a meat-eaters dream and we devoured it blissfully with tangy pickles, salsa and pillowy-soft flatbread.

The buttermilk chicken burger was everything you would want a buttermilk chicken burger to be – juicy, with a crispy, seasoned coating and perched pleasingly next to a happy mound of rosemary fries. Everything we ate tasted divine and left us wanting more.

Our perfect dinner ended on a sweet note with a delightful portion of fluffy bao bun doughnuts and a chocolate cremeux drizzled lavishly with salted caramel and served with crystallised chocolate and a silky smooth chocolate ice cream worth breaking your refined sugar fast for, I did, and I don’t regret it for a moment.

Housed within The Distillery, the venue of Angel Above Portobello isn’t just a gastronomic destination; it’s also a fully-functioning distillery and the proud birthplace of the internationally celebrated Portobello Road Gin and the renowned gin-blending experience, The Ginstitute. Beyond the restaurant, the four-story building is an all-encompassing venue complete with a bar, a private dining room, and three guest accommodations.

Ged Feltham, the owner of Angel Above Portobello, invites diners to delve into a unique gastronomic journey crafted by Peter’s innovative menu. “We’re committed to delivering genuine excellence through our food, ambience, and service,” he shares, highlighting their commitment to infuse cosmopolitan flavours and locally sourced ingredients of the highest quality standards in each dish.

Angel Above Portobello welcomes guests Wednesday to Friday, from 6pm to 2am, and on Saturdays, from 1pm to 2am, with food service operating until 10pm. The Angel Above Portobello isn’t merely a restaurant, it’s an experience. As you walk up the stairs of The Distillery and step into the restaurant, you are immediately whisked away on a gourmet journey that promises to engage all your senses, leaving you with an unforgettable, elegant dining experience in the heart of Notting Hill.

 

Mitra Msaad

Editor in Chief