One of the year’s most exciting restaurant openings took place in The Savoy in February and we were fortunate enough to visit recently to sample the exquisite tasting menu at Restaurant 1890 by Gordon Ramsay. 1890 marks the year that Georges Auguste Escoffier joined The Savoy and began his outstanding contribution to global culinary standards. Restaurant 1890 by Gordon Ramsay pays homage to the culinary titan, whilst offering highly exclusive, contemporary fine dining and providing guests with a true sense of delight.
Restaurant 1890 offers an intimate and elevated experience, opening for dinner only and seating just 26 guests for a more exclusive, intimate dining experience. Gordon Ramsay says that Restaurant 1890, “Creates a blend between unparalleled service, culinary creativity and exquisite wines.”
Chef
James Sharp has most recently been cooking as Senior Sous Chef at Michelin-starred Pétrus by Gordon Ramsay, having joined the Group in 2015 at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in Royal Hospital Road.
Gordon Ramsay explains: “The tasting menu is seasonal, modern French with European influences, prepared with great flair under the very talented Executive Head Chef James Sharp and our hand-picked team.
“It’s the third gastronomic jewel operated by our restaurant group at The Savoy and we’re incredibly excited to offer this new experience.”
Chef James Sharp describes 1890 as offering an exclusive kitchen table experience, but in a restaurant setting: “It’s always been a dream of mine to run an intimate tasting menu restaurant in such a beautiful location.”
Food
With the finest ingredients sourced from all corners of the world, including top British luxury foods suppliers, and a vintage wine list to match, Restaurant 1890 perfectly complements the existing Gordon Ramsay restaurants at The Savoy, including the glorious Savoy Grill, which was taken over by Gordon Ramsay in 2003, and the recently opened River Restaurant, offering one of the finest fish and seafood menus in London.
Guests begin with canapés. There’s a wonderful Smoked Cheddar pomme soufflé and pickled walnut, beautifully presented Beetroot, horseradish, caviar and buckwheat, and a personal favourite – Lobster cornetto.
This is followed with an exquisite Tomato consommé that oozes flavour and is brought to life with Mig Mag olive oil. The Winter tomato Royale young peas, Iberico and mint is a flavoursome combination, while the Parker house roll with onion , black pepper and thyme is deliciously moreish.
Another personal favourite was the Wild garlic Hollandaise, green asparagus and morels. There’s something very British about the asparagus and when it’s married with the European Hollandaise sauce, it’s a somewhat clever nod to both The Savoy and to Escoffier. Simple, yet brilliant.
The Turbot Veronique is another dish that’s wonderfully presented – a challenge when the ingredients used are all rather beige. The fish is cooked perfectly and elevated by the luxuriously superb combo of Champagne and caviar beurre blanc.
The highlight of the menu – the dish that conjures up the most memory in hindsight – is undoubtedly the Aberdeen Angus short rib, artichokes, alliums and sauce Bordelaise. Absolutely divine in every way. Serious compliments to the chef.
The tasting menu is rounded off with a delightful Aged Comte, Gold Rush, Caraway oat biscuit, a refreshing Raspberry Melba, and a Ile Flottante, Strawberry, buttermilk and Jasmin. Expect some Petits Fours to enjoy with coffee at the end, too.
The exclusive tasting menu is priced at £110 per person, with bespoke wine pairing options.
The Head Sommelier is the talented Emanuel Pesqueira. Before joining Gordon Ramsay Restaurants, he’s worked as a chef and as a restaurant and bar manager, so with two decades of experience across all levels, he knows all there is to know. And when it comes to wines, he’s done a sterling job of pairing them with the dishes. Some of the highlights include a limited edition wine from South Africa, a Brazilian Chardonnay and a Chateau de Jau ‘Chez Jau’ Rivesaltes Ambre from France.
Restaurant 1890 is open Wednesday to Saturday with two dinner sittings. The menu is a complete masterstroke from Gordon Ramsay and his team, Escoffier would be proud.
Find out more by visiting Restaurant 1890 by Gordon Ramsay.