Review: In Horto, London Bridge

A couple of weeks ago, my good friend Kyrhys, a fellow food aficionado, and I found ourselves immersed in the gloriously rustic culinary haven of In Horto. Translating from Latin to ‘In The Garden,’ the restaurant lives up to its name, drawing inspiration from the familial joy of communal dining in a garden setting, complete with a wood-fired oven as its centerpiece.

The evening unfolded with an array of dishes that left our taste buds merry and our palates yearning for more. The ambiance was warm and inviting, with the flickering glow of the wood-fired oven casting a comforting light over the wholesome chic decor of this mysterious eatery. The restaurant’s commitment to locally-sourced ingredients shone through in every dish, elevating the experience to one that felt both sophisticated and rooted in the comforts of home.

Our culinary journey began with a tantalising combination of chorizo, honey, and mustard. The perfectly balanced sweet and savoury oil at the bottom of the dish was a pure dream to dip the restaurant’s divine crusty bread into and set the stage for what was to come. The baked Tunworth cheese with truffle honey and confit garlic followed, a masterpiece of oozy textures and flavours that brought us pure joy.

The Burrata with Devonshire squash and speck was a revelation, showcasing the restaurant’s commitment to freshness and quality. Each bite was a happy mergence of creamy burrata, sweet squash, and the smoky richness of speck. It was a dish that celebrated simplicity while showcasing the artistry of the chef’s creations.

The Beef and Bone Marrow Pie with root vegetables was a hearty masterpiece, a true embodiment of comfort food elevated to gourmet heights. The flaky pastry encased succulent beef and luscious bone marrow, creating a dish that was both indulgent and deeply satisfying. The root vegetables provided a delightful contrast, adding a burst of colour and earthy flavours.

The Braised Lamb with harissa vegetables was a triumph of slow-cooked Moroccan-inspired perfection. The lamb was fork-tender, infused with the bold flavours of harissa, and complemented by the creamy sweetness of the sweet potato with creme fraiche that we ordered to savour alongside it.

In Horto’s commitment to ethical and sustainable sourcing was evident throughout the evening. The partnership with Lake District Farmers, Ginger Pig, and Neal’s Yard showcased a dedication to quality and responsibility. The emphasis on sustainably caught shellfish from Portland Shellfish and produce from Chef Richard’s vegetable garden further emphasized the restaurant’s dedication to minimizing its environmental impact.

The wine selection at In Horto was equally impressive, featuring an exciting range from Liberty Wines, known for their carbon-neutral practices, and local favorites at Tap & Bottle. The thoughtful curation enhanced our dining experience, elevating each dish with the perfect accompanying sip.

In Horto is more than just a restaurant; it’s a gastronomic, smoky, wood-fuelled oasis in the heart of London Bridge. The dishes we devoured truly showcased the chef’s culinary prowess and the restaurant’s commitment to quality, sustainability, and the joy of communal dining. Kyrhys and I left In Horto soon after devouring an exceptionally good tart tatin, full of gratitude for the unforgettable culinary journey we had experienced in this garden-inspired rustic haven.

 

 

Mitra Msaad

Editor in Chief