Tagine & Grill – The Moroccan culinary popup that’s the talk of Soho

Lunch at the new Tagine & Grill popup in Soho felt like stepping through a doorway that opened directly onto Marrakech—except, of course, I had a toddler on my hip and fellow meat and bread loving friend Chanti beside me as we navigated the midday bustle of The Sun & 13 Cantons. Soho can be a fickle judge of new culinary arrivals, but from the moment we walked in, it was clear that Yassir Chair’s latest venture wasn’t simply another residency: it was a love letter to Morocco, written in smoke, spice and slow‑cooked generosity.

The pub’s familiar hum was still there—the clink of glasses, the soft shuffle of lunchtime regulars—but Tagine & Grill reshapes the atmosphere with a warmth that feels distinctly North African. What struck me first was how seamlessly the concept fits the space. Designed for relaxed dining, Tagine & Grill doesn’t try to transform the pub into something it isn’t; instead, it layers Moroccan hospitality over the existing bones. There’s an ease to it—dishes meant for sharing, flavours bold enough to spark conversation, and a menu that feels both transportive and entirely at home in Soho.

Yassir Chair

Yassir’s story threads through the experience. Born and raised in Morocco, he moved to London at 20 and built his reputation through Afuego Burger, the Latin‑inspired street‑food brand now thriving across five pub residencies. Tagine & Grill is a return to his roots, but not a nostalgic one. It’s modern Moroccan cooking—open‑fire grilling, vibrant spices, and a confidence that comes from knowing exactly what makes a cuisine sing.

And sing it does.

We began with small plates, mostly because Xavier is happiest when he can pick at things, and Tagine & Grill’s sharers are made for exactly that. The Crispy Chicken Briouats arrived golden and delicate, filled with spiced chicken that melted into its pastry shell. The Zaalouk, a roasted aubergine and tomato dip, was smoky, rich and unexpectedly soothing.

But the moment that anchored the meal—the one I’ve thought about repeatedly since—was the lamb tagine with prunes. It was the weekly special, part of the revolving tagine series that showcases seasonal produce, and it was nothing short of extraordinary. The lamb, slow‑cooked until it surrendered at the slightest nudge of a fork, swam in a sauce that balanced sweetness and depth with almost orchestral precision. The prunes dissolved into the stew, giving it a velvety richness that felt both comforting and celebratory. It was unmistakably Moroccan, unmistakably authentic, and unmistakably crafted by someone who understands the emotional architecture of a tagine.

I’ve eaten tagines across London—some good, some forgettable—but this one transported me. It tasted like a dish made by someone cooking for family, not customers. Even Xavier, who is still developing his relationship with anything that isn’t pasta, leaned in for several enthusiastic spoonfuls.

Of course, Tagine & Grill’s signature kebabs are the beating heart of the menu, and they deserve their spotlight. The Chargrilled Lamb Kofta was brightened with lemon and mint yoghurt, sharpened with pickled red cabbage, and lifted by coriander and chilli sauce. The Chargrilled Chicken Thigh Kebab, finished with Ras el Hanout dressing and harissa mayo, carried a smoky tenderness that made it impossible not to overeat.

Everything felt intentional. The balance of sweet heat, smoke and spice ran through the sides too: Halloumi Fries drizzled with honey and harissa mayo, crisp skin‑on fries dusted with Moroccan spices, and Merguez sausages that snapped with fiery warmth. Even dessert, a plate of crispy, golden baklava, carried the same sense of thoughtful indulgence.

What impressed me most, though, was how accessible the whole experience felt. Moroccan cuisine is still underrated in London, as Yassir himself notes, but Tagine & Grill makes it inviting—affordable, sociable, and deeply flavourful without ever feeling heavy or intimidating. It’s the kind of place you could visit for a casual weeknight dinner, a celebratory lunch, or a late‑night Soho wander that ends with something smoky and satisfying.

As we left, Xavier sticky‑fingered and content, Chanti already plotting her return, I felt genuinely excited. Tagine & Grill isn’t just a new residency; it’s a fresh chapter for The Sun & 13 Cantons and a vibrant addition to Soho’s dining landscape. More importantly, it’s a reminder of how powerful homemade-style food can be when paired with creativity and heart.

If the lamb tagine is any indication, Yassir Chair hasn’t just brought Moroccan cooking to Soho—he’s elevated it.

Mitra Msaad

Editor in Chief

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